Enchanting Lake Atitlan

I visited Lake Atitlan in Guatemala for a few days over 25 years ago. It felt like time stopped. I remembered it as one of the most beautiful and peaceful places I’d ever been. While it’s definitely a bit more built up now, it still exudes an incredible sense of tranquility.

I’m not the only one to think that. The German explorer and naturalist Alexander von Humboldt called it “the most beautiful lake in the world.” And Aldous Huxley famously wrote: “Lake Como, it seems to me, touches on the limit of permissibly picturesque, but Atitlán is Como with additional embellishments of several immense volcanoes. It really is too much of a good thing.”

The lake is at 5,125 feet in elevation and has Spring like weather all year round. It is surrounded by a series of unique towns and villages, primarily accessible by small ferry boats. I stayed in the main town of Panajachel, but visited a few others.

The viewing platform in Panajachel
From the promenade in Panajachel
From the hostel, restaurant and dive shop complex in the village of Santa Cruz called La Iguana Perdida.
Another view from La Iguana
They seemed to have the same small ferry boats I remembered from my earlier trip here.
The main street in Panajachel, Calle Santander. While it was very touristy, it was still pretty chill
Another view of Calle Santander
At the end of Calle Santander, near the lake
Walking the streets of Panajachel
Another side street in Panajachel
Walking by the lake in Santa Cruz
Walking by the lake in Santa Cruz

I visited the Reserva Natural Atitlan just outside Panajachel which has a butterfly sanctuary, a couple of really nice trails and an 8 part zipline course. I skipped the zipline, but really enjoyed the hiking and the butterflies.

The view from a hotel’s gardens on the walk to the Reserva
On the road to the Reserva
Inside the butterfly enclosure
A handful of moths sleep as a striped butterfly floats past
The trails had a number of bouncy bridges with nice evolutionary themed signage.
One trail led to a small beach at the lake
A troup of coatis scavenging for food
I decided to take a tuk tuk back in lieu of walking

I did a wonderful 10km walk around part of the lake from the village of San Marcos to the village of Santa Cruz, with a stop in the little town of Jaibalito for a snack. As you can see below it was an incredibly picturesque day.

I did a first stop in the town of San Pedro, since I stayed there when I was here in the 90s. It has grown significantly since then. But it now has a nice town square.
The small ferry dock in San Marcos
The main tourist corridor in tiny San Marcos
Looking at the small village of Tzunana
Looking out to part of Panajachel in the distance
Part of a group of locals struggling with some heavy loads up the steep steps of the trail
The main street of Jaibalito. Just wide enough for a tuk tuk
Taking a break at a beautiful restaurant in Jaibalito
Looking down at Santa Cruz

I had a chance to dive in Lake Atitlan. It was an opportunity to try diving at high altitude. I had originally planned on doing two dives, but the winter time water was very cold. Even with a 7mm wetsuit on, I was still too cold to want to do a second dive. And, as the videos show, there really wasn’t much to see in the lake. It was just a unique overall experience to do once.

A small crab was one of the higlights of the dive
The best part was the view of the surrounding lake when we surfaced
I flew on this plane from Flores to Guatemala City, and then took a shared van to Lake Atitlan.

I stayed in a wonderful Airbnb apartment on Calle Santander in Panajachel owned by an American who visited here 27 years ago, and never left!

The view from my deck
The hallway leading to the door of my apartment
The outside of the apartment building. My balcony is on the top left.