Hue is a very liveable, modern, mid-sized Vietnamese city that would normally not bring many tourists. However, it was the seat of the Nguyen Dynasty emperors and the national capital of the country from 1802 to 1945, and it therefore is considered to be the intellectual, cultural and spiritual heart of Vietnam. Between the large Citadel and the numerous royal tombs scattered just outside the city, there’s plenty to see here.
The Citadel
Right in the center of the city is the heavily fortified Citadel and Imperial Enclosure. It was the home of the Nguyen Dynasty. It’s an incredibly beautiful place and a real joy to walk around in, even on a dreary, drizzly day. The gardens, palace buildings, long hallways, extensive gardens, small gateways and pavilions all blend together as you wander the extensive grounds.
The Ngo Mon Gate is one of the main gates into the Citadel, and the only way for both pedestrians and vehicles to enter this area.
Since it was built in the 1840s, some of the old administration buildings have a European look to them.
The Royal Theatre is a bit plain on the outside, but it makes up for it with its lavish interior.
The Tombs
Outside of the city, along the banks of the Perfume River, are scores of extravagant mausoleums of these emperors. I rented a scooter and visited three of the most extensive ones.
Tomb of Minh Mang
This tomb is set in the forest. As you can see in the plan below it’s a straight line of buildings surrounded by water leading up the final resting place of the emperor, encased within a small hill.
Tomb of Khai Dinh
This is a relatively small tomb along a hillside. What it lacks in size it makes up for in a grandiose architecture style with its blackened concrete giving it an unexpected gothic air.
Inside the main building is a riot of wonderfully colorful artwork.
Tomb of Tu Duc
This is a huge complex in a beatiful woodland setting. The emporer designed it himself to use before and after his death. The enormous expense of the tomb and the forced labor used in its construction spawned a coup plot that was discovered and suppressed.
Hue
As I stated at the beginning of the post, I found Hue to be a nice, very liveable city. It was easily the most walkable city I’ve seen in Vietnam (and, for that matter, in SE Asia overall).
I stayed in a really comfortable hotel in the more modern part of town. At $36 per night, it was another great SE Asia bargain.
